Each product has its own service life, which sooner or later ends. Any thing once becomes worthless, and cast-iron bathtubs are no exception. Time and water have a negative effect on it and lead to the destruction of the enamel coating.
Agree, changing the bath is expensive and time-consuming. A more practical solution is to restore the plumbing yourself.
We will tell you how and how to paint a cast-iron bath, give recommendations for choosing a method, and also give step-by-step instructions for updating the product.
Benefits of Cast Iron Bath Restoration
The enamel coating of the bath becomes thinner over time, under the influence of water, rust appears on it, and if measures are not taken in time, the process may become irreversible. The bottom can simply rust to holes, and then the bath can no longer be saved.
A bath covered with rust and limescale looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing. Undoubtedly, to put a new bath will be the only right decision if it is planned to make major repairs, change tiles and plumbing. However, if the repair is still far away, then buying a new bath will bring more problems than joy.
Modern cast-iron bathtubs are not cheap, and a considerable amount will also have to be paid for delivery. Due to the large weight of the product, it is unlikely that it will be possible to independently dismantle the old and install a new bath. You need to either ask friends and neighbors, or hire people, which again costs.
Most likely, you will have to make repairs, even if it was not planned.
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Painting a bath with a decorative purpose
Color change to combine with the interior
Bowl cover restoration
Original bathtub inside the bowl
At the same time, the cast-iron bath, having lost its appearance, has not lost a very decent operational characteristics, and can still serve faithfully to its owners. If there are no significant chips and cracks, you can restore the product with your own hands, and quickly enough, without dirt and high costs.
Another significant argument in favor of the restoration: the classic cast-iron bathtubs of the old type are superior in quality to modern analogues, whose service life does not exceed fifteen years.
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Step 1: Regardless of the type of paint composition, the process includes a number of mandatory steps. First, glue the perimeter with masking tape
Step 2: Remove lime deposits from the bowl surface with a hard sponge, if necessary, use a brush. Fill coating defects with putty
Step 3: Vacuum the bowl thoroughly, then degrease with a rag dampened with a white spirit gasoline.
Step 4: Apply a primer to the surface that has dried after processing, evenly distributing the composition with a soft brush. After 6 hours, waiting for the first layer of soil to dry, apply the second
Step 5: All types of chemicals should be applied in a respirator or at least in a tight-fitting non-woven dressing
Step 6: The paint composition, prepared ahead of time according to the manufacturer's instructions, is applied gently with a brush. After 12 hours, waiting to dry, repeat the procedure
Step 7: After the next 12 hours, remove the previously pasted tape. We completed the bath update
Step 8: We do not use the bathroom for several more days, the number of which is indicated by the manufacturer. This break is necessary to completely cure the paint.
Okleka bath tubs around the perimeter before staining
Limescale is removed with a hard sponge.
Surface preparation before priming
Application of soil to the prepared surface
Safety precautions for painting the bath
Application of the scrubbing composition to the prepared bowl
Removing masking tape pasted around the perimeter
When to use a painted bathtub
Basic ways to update coverage
Today, there are three ways to update a cast-iron bath:
- Paint the surface with special enamel.
- Apply liquid acrylic.
- Insert an acrylic liner into the bath.
Each version of the restoration of the old bath has both advantages and disadvantages, which we will consider in detail below. To cover a cast-iron bathtub with enamel or acrylic, it is not necessary to be a specialist, you can cope with this work yourself. The main thing is the correct choice of composition and exact adherence to the application technology.
Restoring the bath in one of the ways described above allows you to achieve amazing results and turn an old rusty bath into an almost new product
You can also install an acrylic liner with your own hands, but this work is more subtle and requires certain skills, so in this case it is better to resort to the services of specialists.
Surface preparation before painting
Regardless of how the cast-iron bath is painted, the surface must be carefully prepared. This is a very important stage that cannot be missed. Proper surface preparation is 99% success.
The bath preparation process consists of several stages. In order to achieve good and lasting staining, it is necessary to carry them out in a certain sequence
First of all, the cast iron bath should be washed and degreased well. Mud and grease interfere with adhesion, prevent the solution from absorbing well into the surface and negate all restoration work. In the near future, new enamel may crack and peel off in areas where fat deposits remain.
For cleaning and degreasing, acidic household chemicals are suitable. Very efficiently cleans the bath with oxalic acid - the bath is treated with a solution and left to act for 10-15 minutes.
But she is very aggressive, and when working, it is necessary to use protective equipment for hands and respiratory organs. Wear rubber gloves and a respirator.
After treatment, rinse the bath well, and even better, fill it with water and hold for 20 minutes, then let it dry. Now, no less important work remains to be done - surface treatment with an abrasive, with which old enamel is removed, and the surface of the bath becomes rough, thereby providing better adhesion of materials.
Surface machining is performed using a drill with a special nozzle in the form of a grinding brush, which, scrolling, removes old enamel and paint from the surface
Rust bath areas should be cleaned down to metal so that in the future it does not appear through a new enamel coating. After cleaning and polishing the surface, vacuum the bath to remove dust and small particles from its surface, and then again treat it with an acid-based liquid detergent.
Pour it into the bath and rub it well over the entire surface, leaving it to act for about an hour and a half. After that, fill the bathtub to the brim with water and let it stand for about an hour.
It is recommended to repeat the washing procedure at least 2-3 times, and then dry the surface with a hairdryer. To avoid clogging the siphon with dyes, disconnect the bath from the sewer.
Before applying the composition, the cup must be carefully inspected. Identified defects must be eliminated, in more detail in this article.
If there are chips and cracks on the surface, they must be puttied and then treated with sandpaper, after which the dust formed must be removed again. On this, the preparation process is completed, you can start staining.
Enamel bath restoration
Enameling a cast-iron bathtub is an old time-tested method that has been used for a very long time. But it should be distinguished professional enameling, which is subjected to the bath during production, and home painting with enamel.
Enamel painting is the easiest and most affordable way to renew an old cast-iron bath without laborious dismantling
In the first case, professional compositions are used that require preliminary heating of cast iron to a certain temperature. In this way it is impossible to paint a cast-iron bath at home, and it is not necessary, since today there are easy-to-use and inexpensive enamel dyes for self-application.
Advantages and disadvantages of the method
Among the advantages of this method of painting can be identified:
- inexpensive cost;
- lack of installation work;
- can be used for both cast iron and steel surfaces.
However, this method also has disadvantages:
- the coating is quite thin and brittle, enamel is very sensitive to household cleaners and shocks. Therefore, you will have to handle the bath very carefully so as not to inadvertently damage it;
- the coating does not eliminate severe defects: chips, dents, cracks;
- over time, yellowness forms on the surface;
- the enamel dries for a long time, the bath can not be used for about a week.
The service life of the coating is from 5 to 9 years. Although for those who are planning to do repairs in the future and change the cast-iron bathtub to a new one, this operation period is likely to suit.
Overview of bath enamels
The question of how to paint an old cast-iron bath is far from idle, since ordinary enamels are not suitable in this case. It is necessary to use special formulations designed for bathtubs.
Before applying any of them, you need to study the instructions and observe the technology exactly, otherwise the coating will not please with its novelty for a short time and will quickly peel off.
It is necessary to work with this enamel very quickly, because after 60 minutes it hardens and becomes unusable
Among enamels of Russian production can be distinguished Epoxy 51 and 51C. Enamel consists of two components: epoxy resin and amine hardeners produced at chemical plants in Germany and America.
Before use, the ingredients are mixed with each other and applied to the surface of the bath. If desired, you can paint the surface in any color by adding color to the paint.
The composition is resistant and, if properly applied, can last up to 9 years. Enamel has a thick consistency, which is a certain difficulty in the work.
In addition, you need to take into account that the time of use of the prepared solution is no more than an hour, after which the mixture begins to harden and it becomes almost impossible to apply it to the surface.
The drying time of the enamel solution is about a week, during which time it is necessary to avoid touching the painted surface
Finnish-made enamel is well established. Reaflex 50. It also consists of two components mixed together before application. The price of paint is somewhat more expensive than the domestic counterpart, but the high cost is fully offset by its excellent quality.
Enamel forms a durable and durable glossy coating on the surface of the bathtub in white or blue.
There are also Russian-made compositions that, although they are not as popular as the ones listed above, have quite worthy characteristics. This is enamel Svetlana and Fantasy, which are ready-made sets, including, in addition to the enamel and hardener, bath processing tools.
The kit includes all the necessary tools for painting a cast-iron bath. The surface dries up seven days after staining.
The process of coating the bath with enamel
If a two-component composition is used for staining, then before use it must be mixed in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer. But do not mix the whole amount at once.
The bath is painted in two layers. Therefore, the enamel must be divided into two parts and first part one portion, and after applying the first layer - the second. The duration of the solution is limited, and if you dilute all the paint at once, you may not have time to use it.
Painting a cast-iron bath should be done using a special flat brush - a flute brush. It has a wide natural bristle, which allows you to accurately apply the coloring composition to the surface without the formation of stains
Enamels intended for home use have a fairly thick consistency, so it is recommended to add solvent 646 in a ratio of 10: 1 to the mixture. The first time the walls of the bathroom are painted with one, and the bottom with two layers.
If smudges have formed on the surface, they must be removed immediately with one upward brush stroke. If you let them dry, then nothing can be fixed. The second layer is applied 15-20 minutes after the first. During this time, the paint will dry out, and you will have time to dilute the second portion of enamel.
A new layer is applied in the same way as the previous one. You can use the bathroom no earlier than 4-7 days, the exact period is indicated in the instructions.
Painting is done from top to bottom, the edges of the bathroom are painted over first, and then the side surfaces and its bottom
How to care for a renewed surface
The cast-iron bathtub has become as good as new, but do not forget that enameling the bathtub at home cannot provide such a high-quality and durable coating as originally applied during the production process. Therefore, the new surface must be treated very carefully, since its hardness is much lower than the original.
The bath must be protected from shock and prevent the falling of heavy objects; abrasives cannot be used to clean it. The surface of the bath can only be washed with liquid formulations. It is also not recommended to pour too hot water into it.
Bath restoration with liquid acrylic
This method appeared relatively recently, about ten years ago. Today it is very popular and used by both professional companies and home craftsmen. And this is no coincidence, it is considered the most effective way to restore the cast-iron bath.
Bulk acrylic consists of two components: the acrylic itself and the hardener, which are mixed before application. For a standard bath 170 cm long, 3-4 kg of solution is enough
Advantages and disadvantages of the method
Bulk acrylic is a truly revolutionary tool that can literally transform an old cast-iron bathtub just a few hours before unrecognizability.
This method has other advantages:
- high processing speed with minimal labor - a person who does not have special skills can easily do this job;
- the coating is perfectly smooth with a beautiful gloss;
- with proper application, the acrylic coating retains its performance and external characteristics for 15 years;
- Acrylic is harmless, does not emit any unpleasant odors and does not require the use of special protective equipment;
- after three days the bath is completely ready for use.
Among the shortcomings, only one can be distinguished: the rather high cost of bulk acrylic compared to enamel. Although the quality and durability of the coating completely compensate for this small minus.
Application of acrylic to the bath
Painting a cast-iron bathtub with acrylic is much faster and easier than enamel. For this, no rollers, no brushes, or other improvised tools will be needed. Acrylic is simply poured onto the bath, and then under its weight it gradually flows down the walls, forming a smooth and even coating.
Take a watering can and, starting from the inner corner, move around the entire perimeter of the bath, gradually filling the entire upper edge
Before you start treating the bathroom with acrylic, lay newspapers or cellophane on the floor so as not to stain the flooring with a solution that will drain from the sides. Mix hardener with acrylic enamel. The container in which the hardener was located can be turned into a convenient watering can for applying acrylic, cutting off its nose at an angle.
The application of acrylic begins with the inner sides of the bath, those that are near the wall. Acrylic has a liquid consistency and quickly flows down. After the top edge of the bathtub is completely filled with mortar, start a new circle, but not from the sides, but from the middle of the side walls.
After the acrylic stack from the sides of the bathtub, you need to walk in a circle for the second time, filling with the composition not painted areas
All acrylic flows down, but some places on the bottom and walls of the bath still remain uncoated. To close them, acrylic must be carefully leveled with a spatula over all fragments that are not flooded.
The mass flowing down, as a rule, rushes towards the drain, so that its clogging does not occur, it is necessary to take it to the other side with a spatula. At this time, acrylic is already gaining viscosity and solidifies.
Acrylic is applied in one layer, and this completes the work of painting the bath. Now your task is to protect the surface from dust particles, debris or water droplets. All this can ruin the coating. Full hardening of the acrylic composition occurs within 1.5-2 days.
Liner restoration
The essence of the method is to install an acrylic liner in an old bath. The product is made from sheet acrylic, which is heated to the desired temperature and squeezed out using a mold. The liner thickness is usually 5 mm.
Externally, the liners resemble a regular acrylic bath, but they are not a full bath and can not be installed separately
The acrylic liner has many advantages, the main of which is a long service life. With proper use, it can last up to 20 years. It is very durable, not afraid of mechanical damage and shock, does not rust and is not covered with a yellow coating.
The acrylic insert is easy to clean with ordinary household products and does not require the use of aggressive compounds.
After restoration, the cast-iron bathtub takes the form of a completely new product with a flat and perfectly smooth glossy surface. Behind the insert you can hide any damage and defects of the old cast-iron construction.
However, there are many drawbacks to this method. Inserts are made on standard cast-iron bathtubs with a length of 1.5 and 1.7 m, so if it has other sizes, then this method of restoration will not work.
The insert is superimposed on the bath and should fit it completely. To achieve this, you need to dismantle the bottom row of tiles, as well as remove the siphon equipment.
The acrylic liner in shape and size must fully correspond to the bath in which it will be installed, not even a slight discrepancy in dimensions is allowed
Before installing the acrylic liner, the bath must be prepared, but such careful preparation as before painting is not required. It is enough to remove the enamel coating using a grinding brush and then degrease the surface with a cleaning agent.
The liner must be tried on, if there are protruding parts, then they will have to be cut with an electric jigsaw. Next, holes for overflow and discharge are noted and cut out with a drill. Sealant is applied to the edges of the bath. The insert is installed on a special foam, which uniformly covers the entire surface of the bath.
The insert is inserted into a pre-foamed bath and is pressed firmly to its bottom and walls
The acrylic insert is carefully lowered into the container and installed so that there are no distortions. Then a siphon is connected, and the bath is almost completely filled with water. In this condition, it must be left for a day to completely dry the foam and sealant.
In this way, you can restore the bath yourself, but it is best to turn to the services of companies that will perform work at a professional level.
If you are not sure which method of restoration to prefer, then read the article - Insert or bulk bath: a comparison of technological and technical characteristics
Restoration of a cast-iron bathtub using special enamels:
Liquid acrylic bath coating:
Restoration of a bath using an acrylic liner:
Restoration is the best way to update the appearance of the bath, as it allows you to quickly, simply and inexpensively give new life to an old cast-iron bath. Each method has its pros and cons, so you decide which one to take into service.
Have experience restoring a cast-iron bath? Please share information with our readers, suggest your own way to solve the problem. You can leave comments in the form below.